The Swiss-owned so-called 'English' Cemetery as it was from 1827
to the late 1860's. At the Risorgimento Giuseppe Poggi
re-designed Florence, briefly Italy's capital, with Parisian
boulevards, tearing down the medieval walls built by Arnolfo di
Cambio and Michelangelo Buonarotti to do so. The 'English'
Cemetery had nestled against the outside of the medieval wall by
the Porta a' Pinti Gate. It still has the two stemma of the lily
and the cross Arnolfo sculpted.
MEMORY
OF THE WORLD REGISTER
Cimitero di Porta a’ Pinti cosidetto Cimitero
“degli Inglesi”
(
(
Ref
N° 2010-44
PART A – ESSENTIAL
INFORMATION
1
SUMMARY
Florence’s
cosmopolitan Swiss-owned so-called ‘English’ Cemetery, its
archives and library of books by and about the international
and ecumenical persons buried between 1827-1877, nobles,
artists, poets, servants, serfs and slaves, British, Swiss,
American, Russian, Scandinavian and others, with
inscriptions in Hebrew, Greek, Roman, Cyrillic and fraktura letters,
and in most European languages, including Rumantsch, distils
into a small space and fifty years of time a dense history
of Florence, of Europe, of the world. Many of these persons
participated in the Peninsula and Waterloo battles against
Napoleon, many were friends of Florence Nightingale and
Henri Dinant, many worked ardently for the Abolition of
Slavery (Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Frances Trollope,
Richard Hildreth, Hiram Powers, Theodore Parker, with the
ex-slave Frederick Douglass visiting their tombs), against
the employment of children in mines and factories (EBB,
Frances Trollope, Southwood Smith), many for the rights of
women and many for the freeing of nations such as Greece and
Italy under foreign oppression (EBB, Walter Savage Landor,
Hiram Powers, Theodosia Trollope, Isa Blagden, Giampietro
Vieusseux, the son of Ferenc Pulszky, the husband of Mary
Somerville). The burial registers and accounts are
meticulously hand-written in French by the Swiss owners, the
archive thus being simultaneously chiselled on marble and
inscribed on enduring rag paper. The tombs are sculpted by
the leading nineteenth century Italian, English, American
and Russian sculptors. The restoration is being carried out
through research in diaries, guidebooks, engravings and
photographs of the period and through work/study by Romanian
Roma who are skilled, but mainly illiterate, craftspeople
under the supervision of experts in an alphabetization
programme. The Romanian Roma were themselves slaves from the
Middle Ages until the nineteenth century when Uncle Tom’s Cabin
(Harriet Beecher Stowe being influenced by Frances Trollope
and Richard Hildreth’s anti-slavery novels) was translated
into Romanian. The Cemetery is memorialized in Arnold
Böcklin’s Island of
the Dead and in Sergei Rachmaninoff’s Symphony on the
painting. It is a place dense with meaning.
2
DETAILS OF
THE NOMINATOR
2.1
Name (person or organisation)
Julia
Bolton Holloway, Custodian, President, ‘Aureo Anello’
Associazione
Gerardo
Kraft, President, Chiesa Evangelica Riformata Svizzera,
Florence
Mario
Marziale, Pastore, Chiesa Evangelica Riformata Svizzera,
Florence
2.2
Relationship to the documentary heritage nominated
Julia Bolton Holloway
is the ‘English’ Cemetery’s Custodian, Director of its
Mediatheca ‘Fioretta Mazzei, President of the Aureo Anello
Association, Professor Emerita, archivist, and editor for
Penguin of Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Aurora Leigh and Other
Poems.
Gerardo Kraft is
President of the Swiss Evangelical Reformed Church in
Mario Marziale is the
Pastore of the Swiss Evangelical Reformed Church in
2.3
Contact person (s)
Julia
2.4
Contact details (include address, phone, fax, email)
Julia
‘English’ Cemetery
P.le Donatello, 38
50132
(39) 055 582608 (phone
and fax)
3
IDENTITY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE DOCUMENTARY
HERITAGE
3.1
Name and identification details of the items being
nominated
3.2
Description
This documentation
demonstrates the ongoing conservation and digitizing of the
materials and the documentation of that process, in marble,
on paper and on the Web. Training under experts takes place
on the premises in restoration work on the tombs and of
books and archival documents. Accessibility to the materials
is both in situ
and virtual in the form of physical visits by persons from
worldwide to the Cemetery and its Mediatheca and virtual
visits on the Web at http://www.florin.ms
, http://piazzaledonatello.blogspot.com
and http://www.ringofgold.eu.
Scholars, photographers and artists using the materials are
required to present a copy of their work for the Cemetery’s
archives. Descendants voluntarily present relevant
materials, for instance, photographs of the medals of the Crimea
that are sculpted on a tomb and which still in the
possession of the family. We share our materials with other
organizations such as the Waterloo
Committee for use in their publications. Members of the
Aureo Anello Associazione present books to the library
relevant to the Cemetery, etc., in particular books by and
about the persons buried here.
An important facet of
the collection is the many translations and editions of
Elizabeth Barrett Browning’s Sonnets from the Portuguese (French, Italian,
German, Spanish, Portuguese. Hungarian, Czech), that we now
possess. We give in this packet a numbered copy of our own
hand-bound bi-lingual limited edition in English and Italian
of EBB’s Sonnets and
Ballads which include her anti-slavery poems and which
raises funds for the restoration of tombs. Research has also
been carried out on Lord Leighton’s
sketches
for his design of her tomb, sketchbooks which are to be
found at
4
JUSTIFICATION FOR INCLUSION/ ASSESSMENT AGAINST
CRITERIA
4.1
Is authenticity established?
Careful contemporary
and later documentation exists on the premises for each of
the 1,400 burials and for the remaining 700 tombs. In
4.2
Is world significance, uniqueness and
irreplaceability established?
In a small area of
land, now an island in the midst of Florentine traffic,
monuments were erected and documented concerning the memory
of many international and ecumenical figures who shaped
history in their own time, their ideals continuing into the
future. Thousands visit the Cemetery, including the American
ex-slave Frederick Douglass, Arnold Böcklin painted it in Island of the Dead,
Sergei Rachmaninoff composed music it, Franco Zeffirelli
filmed it in Tea With
Mussolini, many scholars and artists work within its
oval beneath its tall cypresses. It was abandoned for a
century, its fine garden put to weed killer, the tombs
vandalized, but both the tombs and the garden are now being
restored in a ten year project. The archives are being
carefully studied in relation to the monuments. A library
was established collecting books by and about the persons
buried here. Six thousand persons, on the web and as
physical visitors to the Cemetery, have signed its petition
that it remain open, that it be restored and that it be
declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
4.3
Is one or more
of the criteria of (a) time (b) place (c) people (d) subject
and theme (e) form and style (f) social, spiritual and
community significance satisfied?
(a) The ‘English’
Cemetery represents the memorializing in marble and paper of
a half century (1827-1877), as if frozen in time. It
documents an important era in
(b) The ‘English’
Cemetery is, in a sense, the world and its meanings gathered
up into one small, dense place, an ‘Island of the Dead’ in
Florence, a Cemetery which originally lay just outside the
wall and gate known as the Porta a’ Pinti, first built by
Arnolfo di Cambio with his sculpted stemma of the lily and
the cross, using the stones from the Ghibelline ‘towers of
pride’ for the Guelf walls of common defence, then rebuilt
by Michelangelo Buonarotti to fortify the city against the
Medici. It is thought that this artificial hill was erected
as an Etruscan tomb and it is situated on the road leading
toward Etruscan Fiesole, the gate being originally called
the Porta Fiesolana. The hill was further built up with
rubbish dumped over the medieval wall, resulting in many
shards of hand-painted maiolica ware being collected from
its soil. These have been identified and catalogued by
Marino Marini of the Uffizi Gallery as Roman, medieval,
Renaissance and modern, at the urging of Timothy Wilson of
the Ashmolean Museum, and which include several pieces with
the crutch, the emblem of the Hospital of Santa Maria Nuova,
founded by Dante’s Beatrice’s father, Folco Portinari. We
have the complete documentation between Giuseppe Poggi and
the Swiss owners at the Risorgimento concerning the
Cemetery’s restructuring, with the destruction of the
medieval/Renaissance wall and the changing of its shape to
an oval surrounded by Parisian-like boulevards.
(c) Influential
foreigners flocked to
(d) Funerary and
burial records and the resulting tombs, deepened further by
the library’s gathering of books and documentation by and
about the persons buried here, demonstrate the themes of
hope (the black slave brought at 14 from Nubia in 1827 is
baptized with the name Nadezhda (‘Hope’) in a Russian
Orthodox family, her story being told on her marble tomb in
Cyrillic; the sculpture by Odoardo Fantachiotti of ‘Hope’;
the American child Hope Hayward, buried in a tomb with the
inscription, ‘Our Hope’), and freedom, with the many
participants in the Risorgimento and other seekers after
liberation, from the Turks in Greece, from the Russians in
Poland, from the Austrians in Hungary, from the French of
Napoleon by the English, Irish, Scots and Welsh, etc.
(e) The earlier period
of the Cemetery is dominated by copies of Neo-Classical
monuments, including cinerary and lacrimal urns on columns,
or broken columns garlanded by flowers, or great sarcophagi,
when, at this period, only burial in the earth was actually
carried out. These monuments, which give the Cemetery a
romantic and very beautiful aspect, were mainly created by
Pietro Bazzanti whose firm still exists in
(f) Until 1827 only
Catholics and observant Jews could be buried in
4.4
Are there issues of rarity, integrity, threat and
management that relate to this nomination?
There were earlier attempts by the Swiss to
give the Cemetery to the Comune, then to FAI, as it was seen
as a ‘white elephant’ liability, not an asset. It could
easily have become a parking lot as has happened beneath the
island in the same boulevard, the Viale Gramsci, where the
Florentine State Archives are now situated. It had been
neglected badly for a long period but the Custodian as
President of the Aureo Anello Associazione, a Friends of the
Library group that next became also a Friends of the
Cemetery group, has worked closely with the Pastor and the
President of the Swiss Church to raise funds, to effect the
Cemetery’s restoration and to document its archives, in
tandem with SDIAF and the Soprintendenza Archivistica per la
Toscana and with the Belle Arti. We document
our work in the newest archival medium, on the Web, at http://www.florin.ms, a
website that Google Analytics gives as receiving 13,000 page
views from 110 countries/territories a month.
The work
of conservation is urgent as many of the inscriptions on the
monuments have become unreadable due to traffic pollution.
The Opificio delle Pietra Dura and CNR ‘Nello Carrara’ carry
out research on the degradation of the marble and pietra
serena. Professor
I. Trizzino and his students of the Facoltà di Scienze
Matematiche Fisiche e Naturali, Corso di Laurea in
Tecnologia per la Conservazione e il Restauro dei Beni
Culturali, have written an 85 page ilustrated handbook on
the ‘English’ Cemetery. It will be
possible with the Romanian Roma workers to clean the tombs
under expert supervision (using alkali and elbow grease,
never acid) and to seal the marble with crystalline wax
every two years to protect them from the traffic pollution.
Employing the Romanian Roma workers will lift them out of
dire poverty and mendicancy and enable them to become
literate. This section of the project is called ‘From Graves
to Cradles’. The Roma are subjected, as were former slave
blacks in
5
LEGAL INFORMATION
5.1. Owner
of the documentary heritage (name and contact details)
Gerardo
Kraft, President, Chiesa Evangelica Riformata Svizzera
Cimitero
Porta a’ Pinti
P.le
Donatello, 38
50132
Firenze, Italy
5.2
Custodian of the documentary heritage (name and
contact details, if different to owner)
Julia
Bolton Holloway in consultation with Pastore Mario Marziale
Cimitero
Porta a’ Pinti
P.le
Donatello, 38
50132
Firenze, Italy
5.3
Legal status:
(a) Category of ownership
Private
(b) Accessibility
We are
open to the public Monday mornings, 9:00 a.m - 12:00 m,
Tuesdays through Fridays, in winter, 2:00 p.m. - 5:00 p.m.,
in summer, 3:00 p.m. – 6:00 p.m. There are stairs at the
gate with a railing for the infirm that we have had
installed. The hill has a gradual incline.
(c) Copyright status
We require
all photographers and researchers to receive permission and
to give a copy of their work for the archives.
(d) Responsible administration
Julia
(e) Other factors
6
MANAGEMENT PLAN
6.1
Is there a management plan in existence for this
documentary heritage? YES/NO
YES
Research: For ten
years we have carried out intense research on the so-called
‘English’ Cemetery and have doubled the size of its
Mediatheca’Fioretta Mazzei’.
A book has
already been published on the History of the
A further
book is being written by Julia Bolton Holloway, Custodian,
to be titled Thunders
of White Silence; Florence’s ‘English’ Cemetery,
telling the stories of the tombs sector by sector in chapter
after chapter, followed by a chapter documenting the history
of the Romanian Roma and their work in restoring the
Cemetery, and which will include a DVD giving the complete schedatura for
each tomb as compiled for the Belle Arti and its
accompanying archival documentation.
Conservation: Our
Archives are stored on the premises in an upstairs armadio, safe from
flooding, and can be consulted and photographed with our
consent in our library on the main floor.
Our
Cemetery is a laboratory for restoration work and used by
CNR “Nello Carrara”, the Opificio delle Pietre Dure, and the
Istituto per l’Arte ed il Restauro. In consultation with the
Belle Arti, CNR and Opificio delle Pietre Dure we contract
with experts and with workers to carry out consolidation and
conservation projects.
We teach
book-binding and restoration and paper marbling, using
nineteenth century equipment and methods.
Cultural
Activities: We hold
international conferences with scholars on the Cemetery in
the series we established on ‘The City and the Book’,
publishing their Proceedings on the Web. As well, the Museo
Archeologico Nazionale of Florence has held an exhibition on
our Egyptian motives, inspired by the 1828 Expedition of
Champollion and Rosellini, and the Gabinetto Vieusseux has
held a conference and exhibition on ‘Hiram Powers a Firenze:
Convegno e mostra documentarian el bicentenario della
nascita (1805-2005)’.
We have
been televised several times on Italian television, on Swiss
television (on our Rumantsch graves) and on British
television.
We
encourage poetry readings and artists sketching in the
Cemetery. Theatre groups and film directors use our setting
for performances and films.
Many
university programmes schedule guided tours of the Cemetery
for their students.
We
strongly encourage educational and cultural activities.
Publicity: We
aggressively maintain websites, a weblog and a Facebook
page. We document our research and conservation
simultaneously on the Web at http://www.florin.ms http://piazzaledonatello.blogspèot.com
and http://www.ringofgold.eu
Funding: We
actively seek funding for the restoration and maintenance of
the Cemetery from private individuals, from descendants,
from associations and foundations, and from city,
provincial, regional, European and United Nations
governmental entities. Our Nomination to the Memory of the
World is a part of this fund-raising project.
7
CONSULTATION
7.1
Provide details of consultation about this nomination
with (a) the owner of the heritage (b) the custodian (c)
your national or regional Memory of the World committee
(a &
b) From 1827 the Cemetery has been administered by the
Pastor and the President of the Swiss Evangelical Reformed
Church in
(c) We
sought diligently to place this nomination with the Italian
National Committee for UNESCO but have failed in making any
meaningful contact with that body. Perhaps it is difficult
for an Italian, Rome-based and non-English speaking body to
comprehend us. We are, however, valued by the Ministero per
I Beni e le Attività Culturale, the Regione Toscana, the
Provincia di Firenze and the Comune di Firenze, and by their
entitities safeguarding archives. We are a member of ASCE,
Association of Significant Cemeteries in
PART B –
SUBSIDIARY INFORMATION
8
ASSESSMENT OF RISK
8.1
Detail the nature and scope of threats to this
documentary heritage (see 5.5)
Decay,
neglect, pollution, lack of proper drainage to the hill, and
vandalism of the monuments has been a matter of concern to
Florentines for several generations. The previous neglect of
both the documentation and of the monuments resulted in
their depreciation, the Cemetery and its archive being
considered a ‘White Elephant’, particularly when the Swiss
Evangelical Reformed Church was forced by the Comune of
Florence to pay millions to restore the rusted, broken iron
railing, a railing originally put in place and owned by the
Comune. Following the burial of the famous Ballerino and
Choreographer Evgen Polyakov the Comune of Florence granted
the
9
ASSESSMENT OF PRESERVATION
9.1
Detail the preservation context of the documentary
heritage (see 3.3)
I. The Archives are in
excellent condition, apart from some 1966 Flood damage, due
to the rag paper on which they are written, but they are in
need of duplication lest they be lost in a fire or a further
flood and their data lost. They are carefully kept in an
upstairs armadio
for safety. The Soprintendenza Archivistica per la Toscana
is willing to consult on this task. The burial entries are
of great interest as they document the Canton, the
profession, the parents’ names, and even the mother’s maiden
name, of the deceased, while the accounts give full details
of the coffin, its wood, whether lined with white silk or
not, the horse and carriage hire, the plumes, the gloves and
crepe for the hats, and of the grave, whether walled or not,
etc. (Within half a block is another abandoned cemetery,
that of the all-male Misericordia, which even has the
funerary carriages and hearses of long ago mouldering away
under its arches. It could be splendid to preserve both
Cemeteries as a kind of Florentine Père Lachaise.) We liaise
with SDIAF (Sistema Documentario Integrato dell'Area
Fiorentina), and the Soprintendenza Archivistica per la
Toscana, for which see their letters enclosed with this
Nomination.
II. The ‘English’
Cemetery tombs have been badly damaged, partly by a British
bomb (friendly fire?) in WWII, by the subsidence of the hill
(especially in the 1966 Flood), by vandals and by pollution.
They have also been damaged by traffic pollution and acid
rain and many of the inscriptions are disappearing. They are
catalogued carefully with descriptions, measurements and
digital photographs, their inscriptions likewise carefully
recorded as an archive in marble, and are studied as a
laboratory in conservation methods by CNR “Nello Carrara”
and the Opificio delle Pietre Dure. The monuments are now
being restored according to the availability of funds from
descendants and corporate bodies. Along with the restoration
of the tombs, work is being carried out to restore the
nineteenth-century English garden using as documentation
diaries, guidebook descriptions, engravings and photographs
of the period. For years it had been put to weedkiller, now
forbidden, and which had used chemicals that had also eroded
the pietra serena
bases to the tombs. Visitors donate daffodil, narcissus,
hyacinth, lilies and iris bulbs, box, myrtle, lavender,
papyri and rose bushes. The Florentine lily is our wild
purple iris and these in the Spring are a dream. The
cypresses, famed in Arnold Böcklin’s ‘
III & IV. ‘
V. The Mediatheca
‘Fioretta Mazzei’ collects books and offprints, publishes
books and CDs, binds and restores books, marbles paper, and
conducts classes in book-binding, book restoration and paper
marbling. We particularly collect books by and about our
persons buried here. Recordings are made of readings from
Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Walter Savage Landor, Dante
Alighieri and others. Its next project shall be to record
the poetry of Arthur Hugh Clough. We originally used an IPod
with an X-treme Mic but these became obsolete so we have
recently purchased the USB Yeti microphone for this task.
With the purchase of a videocamera we hope to film aspects
of the restoration work which can then be published on the
VI. The Florin
website, http://www.florin.ms,
is constantly maintained and updated with essays,
recordings, ‘City and Book’ Proceedings, and research
concerning the Cemetery and concerning
VII. The international
conferences in
VIII. We have worked
with Roma families from
To donate to the restoration by Roma of Florence's formerly abandoned English Cemetery and to its Library click on our Aureo Anello Associazione's PayPal button:
THANKYOU!